Retailers need to stick to the fundamentals

GUEST OBSERVATION

Recently, we’ve been treated to quite a few new, international entrants to the fashion game who’ve come to our shores, the likes of Zara, Uniqlo, H&M, Topshop, Forever New et al; the reality is, that’s only the start of it; it’s the first wave as it were; there’s more to come. Their trading figures are outstanding; in short they’re creaming it!

And the reason? Is it merely the market’s fascination with anything foreign? The conception (or misconception), that if it comes from overseas it’s better? Or is it simply that it’s ‘new’, and when it comes to fashion, ‘new’ is about as good as it gets?

The ‘die hard stick in the muds’ will vehemently agree with one or all of the above; it’s always easier to blame something or someone else rather than taking it yourself. The truth is that these retailers are taking huge chunks of the market share from our traditional, home grown contingent, because they’re better retailers.

Retail goes in cycles. In Australia before the 1950s, the challenge was to get stock; if you could get it you could sell it. Great retailers became skilled at importing, at sourcing, even at manufacturing; they rose to the challenge and their success was legendary; names like David Jones, Anthony Hordern, Sydney Myer, Thomas Ahern, the Grace Brothers and countless others had built empires by the 1950s.

By the 1960s, the game had changed. Relatively speaking, sourcing stock wasn’t a problem but the public was tiring of same old, same old. They wanted new stuff and variety; they wanted choice; great retailers again rose to the challenge. The first Coles and Woolworths supermarkets came on the scene; Dick Smith opened his first store in Artarmon with less than $1,000 capital; the first Kmart in Australia opened as did the first Pizzeria.

By the 1970’s the challenge was distribution, retail systems, and sophistication in retail management. Craig Kimberley founded Just Jeans and grew it exponentially as he demonstrated that people wearing blue jeans could talk with business managers, accountants and bankers on an equal footing. Retail legends (and soon to become property investment legends) like John Gandel and Marc Beson of Sussans, Joseph Brender and Sam Moss of Katies and a host of others showed the investment and banking world that the term ‘frock shops’ didn’t describe their operations as they became some of the most powerful and influential business tycoons of the decade.

By the time the 1980s were in full swing, shopping centres were the order of the day (they’d arrived in the 1950s but hadn’t really got going until the mid ‘60s) and shop design, fit-outs, merchandise presentation, new labels, extremely sophisticated marketing, celebrity power, all took on new meanings. Consumer spending on a scale not seen before was the order of the day and the competition for it was fierce. Retailers were on a knife-edge, rents were spiralling; the need for efficiency was fundamental. Australian specialty retailers, when measured on a scale of turnover per square metre (or square foot as was in those days) were the best performing in the world.

You could go on, right up to around 2000 to 2005 when the wheels started to fall off.

Australian retail in the last decade or so hasn’t done very much; it’s stagnated somewhat. The challenges have been there but the retailers (unlike their forebears) have failed to rise.

Take the big boys for example. David Jones is pretty tired these days; service is atrocious, merchandising is behind the times and the ‘same old, same old’ is alive and well once again. Try getting attention in David Jones on a Saturday in the bedding department; and it’s not the fault of the staff, they’re flat out, there just aren’t enough of them. In the menswear department, the fitting rooms are like hen cages and go in after mid-day and the body odours are obnoxious. It’s just not a store for quality and service. And what does a marquee at Randwick Racecourse do for sales? I wonder how many extra staff in the bedding department could be paid with that expense.

We’ve just had the royals out; did they go into David Jones? In 1954 when the Queen came to Sydney, she had a state banquet in the DJ restaurant! OK, times were different then; but the royals we’ve just had weren’t the Queen; they were lower down so that evens it up!

Myer is travelling a bit better but it’s not crash hot either; DJ’s new owners will give them a real run for their money.

In the specialty stakes what’s new? Take out the foreign retailers and the answer is, ‘not much’.

There are exceptions. Harolds, the menswear operation is top notch; the service is exemplary and the presentation of the merchandise and the shop itself are world class. Guess what? They are trading! Been to Apple lately – now that’s service. Gerry Harvey is complaining as always, but he’s making a profit; he’s a great retailer and he’s never forgotten the basics. JB HiFi is another classic exception, a great retailer doing it properly.

The most interesting feature of the new brand of international retailers becomes apparent when you look at exactly what it is they are doing; analyse it and its illuminating; they’re just paying attention to the fundamentals of retail.

Their shops are attractive; people like the new large formats for a start. No difference at all to when Country Road announced some twenty years ago that it required larger stores. It was difficult; they were trail blazing; landlords objected. Country Road persisted and finally won out. They compromised a little on ‘extent’ and shopping centre owners compromised on ‘rates’; simple market forces.

So it’s larger formats, attractive shops and very fresh ideas in fit-outs. It’s also better service, better pricing and a wider variety. It’s also value for money (or a perception of) and a healthy respect for the market as well as a well-researched and intuitive knowledge of it. It’s packaging, advertising, marketing and image creation. It’s dealing with the new communication world, influencing it and being an integral part of it. In other words, it’s adhering to the basics of retail. It’s not rocket science; it’s just about buying and selling stuff!

For the last decade or so, the vast majority of Australian retailers have treaded water; the nonsense talked about the global financial crises, the threat of the internet, the power of the landlords and whatever else they come up with shows a marked move towards finding excuses rather than rising to challenges.

Good retailers will always do well. In order to do well, you need to stick to the knitting, focus on the fundamentals. If you want another opinion, ask Joseph Brender, Sam Moss, John Gandel, Marc Beson, Craig Kimberley, Dick Smith……………

Michael Lloyd is publisher of Shopping Centre News.